Short answer: Pick leg height by subtracting your top thickness from the finished table height you want: 28" legs for a dining table, 34" for counter height, 40" for bar height, 16" or 18" for a bench or coffee table. Pick leg width by measuring the widest point of the leg where it meets the floor and multiplying by 1.75. That number is the widest top the leg will hold steady. A 28" leg with a 24" footprint carries a top up to 42" wide, which is a standard dining table. Everything below shows the math for each of our sizes, plus when to move from two legs to a stretcher rod, four legs, or a pedestal base.
Part 1: Leg height
Table height is leg height plus top thickness. Our legs are sized so that a standard 1" to 2" top lands you at the standard finished height for each use. A thicker top just makes a taller table, and that is a matter of preference. Thinner tops work too, but attaching gets trickier because the threaded inserts need enough wood to bite into, so call us before you drill a thin top.
| Table type | Finished height | Leg height | Example top thickness |
|---|---|---|---|
| Coffee table | 16" to 18" | 16" | 1" to 2" |
| Bench | 17" to 19" | 16" or 18" | 1" to 2" |
| End table, side table, nightstand | 22" to 25" | 22" | 1" to 2" |
| Sofa table, console, entry table | 29" to 30" | 28" Narrow | 1" to 2" |
| Dining table, desk, kitchen table | 29" to 30" | 28" | 1" to 2" |
| Counter height table, kitchen island | 35" to 36" | 34" | 1" to 2" |
| Bar height table, pub table | 41" to 42" | 40" | 1" to 2" |
A few things that trip people up:
- Thicker or thinner tops. The 1" to 2" in the table is an example, not a limit. A 3", 4", or 5" slab on 28" legs gives you a 31", 32", or 33" table, and plenty of people build exactly that. It is entirely a preference. Go as thick as you like the look of. Thinner than 1" is possible but the inserts have less wood to grab, so plan the attachment carefully. Our attachment guide covers thin tops.
- Desks. Standard desk height is 29" to 30", same as dining. If you are tall or use a thick keyboard tray, 28" legs with a thin 3/4" top gets you to 28.75", which some people prefer.
- Benches to match a dining table. Seat height should be 11" to 12" below the table surface. For a 30" table, that is an 18" to 19" bench, so 16" legs with a 2" top or 18" legs with a 1" top.
- Levelers. Our steel legs ship with adjustable feet levelers that add about 1/4" to 1/2". Cast legs sit flat on the floor. Factor that in if you are matching an existing piece to the quarter inch.
Part 2: Leg width and footprint
This is the question we get more than any other, and the answer has changed over the years as we have watched more tables get built.
Every leg on our site lists two width measurements in its size chart:
- Mounting width is how wide the leg is at the top, where it bolts to your table. It tells you how much flat surface you need under the top.
- Widest point is how wide the leg is at the floor. This is the number that determines stability.
The rule: your top should be no wider than 1.75 times the leg's widest point.
We used to say 2 times. Tables built at 2 times were fine on a level floor with nobody leaning on the edge. Once you add an uneven floor, a person leaning across to grab a dish, or a kid climbing up, 2 times gets tippy. At 1.75 times we have not seen problems. That is the number we now give everyone who calls.
Here is what it works out to for our legs. Widest point is from each product's size chart; the last column is that number times 1.75, rounded down. Every leg in our table leg collection lists both numbers on its product page.
Michael collection (our most popular leg; the other cast collections are within an inch or two)
| Leg height | Mounting width | Widest point (at floor) | Maximum top width |
|---|---|---|---|
| 16" | 12" | 15.5" | 27" |
| 18" | 12" | 15.5" | 27" |
| 22" | 14" | 18.75" | 32" |
| 28" Narrow/Sofa | 14" | 19" | 33" |
| 28" | 18" | 24" | 42" |
| 34" | 21.5" | 28.5" | 49" |
| 40" | 23.75" | 34" | 59" |
Ember Ridge collection (steel; narrow sizes available)
| Leg height | Mounting width | Widest point (at floor) | Maximum top width |
|---|---|---|---|
| 16" | 10.125" | 15" | 26" |
| 18" | 10.125" | 15" | 26" |
| 22" | 12" | 20" | 35" |
| 28" Narrow | 12.25" | 17.5" | 30" |
| 28" | 17.75" | 26" | 45" |
| 34" Narrow | 14" | 20.5" | 35" |
| 34" | 17.75" | 28.5" | 49" |
| 40" Narrow | 16.25" | 22.5" | 39" |
| 40" | 19.75" | 28.5" | 49" |
Read these as a ceiling, not a target. A 36" wide dining top on 28" legs with a 24" footprint is very solid. A 42" top is at the limit and is fine on a level floor. A 48" top wants a wider leg or a different base.
The narrow versions exist for sofa tables, desks, and hall tables where the top is 14" to 20" deep and a full width leg would stick out past the top. Do not put a narrow leg under a dining table just because it is cheaper. The 1.75 rule will tell you it does not work.
Part 3: Length, and when two legs are not enough
Width is about tipping. Length is about racking, which is the table swaying end to end when someone pushes on it.
Two trestle style metal table legs, one at each end, are rigid up to about 6 feet of table length. The top itself ties them together and that is enough. Past 6 feet, the top flexes enough that the table can sway. You have three options:
- Add a stretcher rod between the two legs. This is the answer for tables from 6 to about 9 feet, and it is what we recommend on shorter tables too. The rod runs under the table from leg to leg and turns two separate legs into one rigid frame. Even on a table short enough not to need it, a rod stiffens everything, gives everyone at the table a footrest, and finishes the look of a farmhouse or industrial base. We make stretcher rods sized to our legs and it is the single most common thing added to a table leg order.
- Go to four legs. Four individual legs at the corners work for any length, but they change the look and take away the open space under the table that people like about trestle legs.
- Go to a pedestal base. A pedestal base is a single column with a wide foot. It is the standard in restaurants because chairs slide in from any side with nothing to hit. For a round or square top up to about 48", one pedestal. For a long rectangular top, two pedestals set in from the ends.
For tables over 9 feet, call us. It can be done and we have shipped legs for 12 foot conference tables, but the right answer depends on the top.
Where to set the legs along the length
Set trestle legs in from each end of the top. Too close to the end and there is no knee room for someone sitting at the head of the table. Too far in and the ends of the top cantilever out and can tip if someone sits on the corner. As a starting point, set the outside face of each leg 12" to 15" in from the end of the top on a 6 to 8 foot table, and check knee room with a chair before you drill. If the top is unusually thick or heavy, keep the legs closer to the ends.
Worked examples
7 foot by 40" walnut dining table, 1.75" thick. 28" Michael legs give a 29.75" table. The 24" widest point times 1.75 is 42", so a 40" top is inside the rule. At 7 feet, add a stretcher rod. Set legs 12" to 15" in from each end.
5 foot by 36" kitchen island, 1.5" butcher block. 34" legs from our counter height collection give a 35.5" counter height. Widest point 28.5" carries up to 49", so 36" is well inside. At 5 feet a stretcher rod is not required, but we would add one. Islands get leaned on hard, and the rod doubles as a footrest for stools.
60" by 16" sofa table, 1" top. 28" Narrow Ember Ridge legs give 29". Widest point 19" carries up to 33", and a 16" top is far under that. The narrow leg is 14" at the mounting plate, so it tucks under the 16" top without showing. A stretcher rod is optional here; some people add one for the look.
6 foot by 14" bench to go with the dining table above. 16" Michael legs with a 2" top gives 18", which is 11.75" below the 29.75" table. Widest point 15.5" carries up to 27", so a 14" bench top is fine. At 6 feet, right at the edge for racking. Add a bench stretcher rod. It stiffens the bench and matches the one on the table.
8 foot by 42" farmhouse table, 2" top. 28" legs give 30". 42" is exactly at the 1.75 limit for a 24" footprint, so it works on a flat floor but it is the limit. At 8 feet, a stretcher rod is required, not optional. If the floor is uneven or the table will get a lot of use, consider 34" counter height legs cut down by a fabricator, or a pair of pedestal bases instead.
Frequently asked questions
What height table legs do I need for a dining table?
28" legs. With a 1" to 2" top you land at 29" to 30", which is standard dining and desk height.
How wide can my table top be for a given leg?
Measure the leg's widest point where it meets the floor and multiply by 1.75. That is the widest top the leg will hold steady. A leg with a 24" footprint carries a top up to 42" wide.
Do I need a stretcher rod?
On a table longer than 6 feet with two trestle legs, yes. The top flexes at that length and the rod is what keeps the table from swaying. Under 6 feet it is not required, but we recommend one anyway: it stiffens the table, gives you a footrest, and finishes the look. It is the most common add on to a table leg order.
How far in from the ends should table legs go?
On a 6 to 8 foot table, set the outside face of each leg 12" to 15" in from the end. Check knee room at the head of the table with a chair before drilling. Keep legs closer to the ends on a very heavy top.
What is the difference between mounting width and widest point?
Mounting width is the width of the plate at the top of the leg, where it bolts to the table. Widest point is the width at the floor. Mounting width tells you how much flat space you need under the top. Widest point tells you how wide a top the leg can support.
What height should a bench be to go with a dining table?
Seat height should be 11" to 12" below the table surface. For a 30" table, that is an 18" to 19" bench, so 16" legs with a 2" top or 18" legs with a 1" top.
Every table leg product page has a size chart with height, mounting width, widest point, weight, and capacity for each size, plus a CAD drawing you can download. If you are between sizes or building something unusual, send us the dimensions or call 1 (800) 920-8066 and we will tell you what we would use. For help choosing between cast aluminum, steel, and wood, read our materials guide. Once the legs arrive, the attachment guide walks through mounting them.